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There are many ways to skin a cat. This is one of them...
A nice 3 way motorized trimmer is the best way to trim brass easily yet consistently.
In terms of accuracy the forster is the most consistent and faster one for me.
This is what I do with some of the brass to load rifle reasonably fast w/o loosing control:
1) Wash
I wash the brass and or sonic clean it depending how bad it is. I segregate the brass and do it in batches
so while I wash one I have another one dry ready to take the press. In the summer you might use the sun
as a natural cheap drier in the winter on top of a heating vent 24 to 48 hrs.
2) Resize (1st pass progressive)
spray the case with some bootleg lube in a large plastic bowl and shake them a little. I use canola oil and alcohol.
I dump the brass normally 200 to 300 cases at the time in the auto feeder of the progressive press.
I only have the resizing die or might have decapping and resizing w/o the pin depending on the primer crimp
situation. At this point is a matter of going up and down. The press is very reliable sometimes I don't get one
single stoppage or if there is one or two is just a case coming down backwards. Very easy job, up and down
easy strokes.
3) 3 way cutter and primer pocket as needed.
I run the collected brass through the foster 3 way trimmer. This gives me a very consisten cut without burrs.
If the primer pocket has a crimp or never has been done before I run it for a second on the pocket trimmer.
Same way I run a brush in the pocket if I see any primer residue still left.
If this was for match grade ammo I will punch a flash hole uniformer.
All these operations are done with motorized units and in one efficient move with one bin on the right and the
other on the left. Aside from the forster mini lathe/trimmer I still use the RCBS power station that has everything that
I need running from a 110v outlet.
4) Annealing
This is optional. Not all the calibers need it and at different times. I also use a machine and the batch system
to do it more efficiently. Never use water to dump hot cases. This way one does the opposite to annealing.
5) 2nd Wash.
I give the batches a 2nd wash. Not much is needed just very hot water and let them soak in some soap to eliminate
any grease residue. If this is for prime hunting ammo to store for long periods (years/decades) I might give it an extra wash
and rinse. I don't care about shiny brass but I do care about consistent super clean brass that will not contaminate
powders nor primers.
Since I work in batches while I might be doing a 2nd wash in one I might be doing a 1st wash in another batch and
retrieving already dry batches.
I have washed brass ready to go for any caliber washed only and washed and prepped properly marked with the
nr. of reloads, batch, etc... Little simple steps make for great organization and efficiency in the long run.
6) Charging, seating and crimp.
Lastly I setup the press for the 2nd run. I setup the dummy (template) and use a few rounds to setup the charge,
COAL, etc.. although this is very quick with a press if you don't change bushings.
I have primer tubes ready to go all labeled and the reservoir ready with powder. Also bullet feeder if applies
that with rifle the tube will serve one bullet in my finger tips vs. dumping. Sill like the feeling of a bullet
and feel for imperfections in case, neck or bullet during feeding. I put the charge cop and in any case
I leave one stage open before the seating die that with a good LED light lets me see the case inside no matter what
caliber. The last is a small crimp that I put whether I have nor not cannelure. Almost nothing w/o the cannelure
as we do not want to deform the bullet.
So for every stroke the die stations will perform in this order:
1) prime only at the upstroke
2) charge the case with powder (case activated)
3) powder cop and/or opening to peek.
4) seated bullet comes to my fingers in left hand.
5) factory crimp (amost all the time is factory crimp)
For ever now and then I pick a case and put it on my gauge to verify COAL measuring from the datum using the bulle gauge.
7) Labeling and Storage
Once the dumper is full I transfer to a proper package indicating all the information about the brass, charges and bullets.
I date and put a batch nr coded with caliber. For example 308W_R15_175TMK_16_09A (easy to guess).
This goes into my log book and then referenced into my shooting log for whatever purposes.
1/2 work is in washing and prepping the brass that is key for accuracy.
you can avoid certain things like for pistol you don't trim. Or don't be too anal to segregate and prep brass if it is for
plinking or regular practice but do not miss any of the esential safety steps.
If top speed is one's goal then they should probably avoid reloading. For reloading safety is more important than speed
and while can produce good amounts of ammo with good preparation and quality equipment it requires patience.
Slow downs and stoppages will happen and one has to deal with them so there is no shortcuts here.
However, Patience rewards those who make use of it.
A nice 3 way motorized trimmer is the best way to trim brass easily yet consistently.
In terms of accuracy the forster is the most consistent and faster one for me.
This is what I do with some of the brass to load rifle reasonably fast w/o loosing control:
1) Wash
I wash the brass and or sonic clean it depending how bad it is. I segregate the brass and do it in batches
so while I wash one I have another one dry ready to take the press. In the summer you might use the sun
as a natural cheap drier in the winter on top of a heating vent 24 to 48 hrs.
2) Resize (1st pass progressive)
spray the case with some bootleg lube in a large plastic bowl and shake them a little. I use canola oil and alcohol.
I dump the brass normally 200 to 300 cases at the time in the auto feeder of the progressive press.
I only have the resizing die or might have decapping and resizing w/o the pin depending on the primer crimp
situation. At this point is a matter of going up and down. The press is very reliable sometimes I don't get one
single stoppage or if there is one or two is just a case coming down backwards. Very easy job, up and down
easy strokes.
3) 3 way cutter and primer pocket as needed.
I run the collected brass through the foster 3 way trimmer. This gives me a very consisten cut without burrs.
If the primer pocket has a crimp or never has been done before I run it for a second on the pocket trimmer.
Same way I run a brush in the pocket if I see any primer residue still left.
If this was for match grade ammo I will punch a flash hole uniformer.
All these operations are done with motorized units and in one efficient move with one bin on the right and the
other on the left. Aside from the forster mini lathe/trimmer I still use the RCBS power station that has everything that
I need running from a 110v outlet.
4) Annealing
This is optional. Not all the calibers need it and at different times. I also use a machine and the batch system
to do it more efficiently. Never use water to dump hot cases. This way one does the opposite to annealing.
5) 2nd Wash.
I give the batches a 2nd wash. Not much is needed just very hot water and let them soak in some soap to eliminate
any grease residue. If this is for prime hunting ammo to store for long periods (years/decades) I might give it an extra wash
and rinse. I don't care about shiny brass but I do care about consistent super clean brass that will not contaminate
powders nor primers.
Since I work in batches while I might be doing a 2nd wash in one I might be doing a 1st wash in another batch and
retrieving already dry batches.
I have washed brass ready to go for any caliber washed only and washed and prepped properly marked with the
nr. of reloads, batch, etc... Little simple steps make for great organization and efficiency in the long run.
6) Charging, seating and crimp.
Lastly I setup the press for the 2nd run. I setup the dummy (template) and use a few rounds to setup the charge,
COAL, etc.. although this is very quick with a press if you don't change bushings.
I have primer tubes ready to go all labeled and the reservoir ready with powder. Also bullet feeder if applies
that with rifle the tube will serve one bullet in my finger tips vs. dumping. Sill like the feeling of a bullet
and feel for imperfections in case, neck or bullet during feeding. I put the charge cop and in any case
I leave one stage open before the seating die that with a good LED light lets me see the case inside no matter what
caliber. The last is a small crimp that I put whether I have nor not cannelure. Almost nothing w/o the cannelure
as we do not want to deform the bullet.
So for every stroke the die stations will perform in this order:
1) prime only at the upstroke
2) charge the case with powder (case activated)
3) powder cop and/or opening to peek.
4) seated bullet comes to my fingers in left hand.
5) factory crimp (amost all the time is factory crimp)
For ever now and then I pick a case and put it on my gauge to verify COAL measuring from the datum using the bulle gauge.
7) Labeling and Storage
Once the dumper is full I transfer to a proper package indicating all the information about the brass, charges and bullets.
I date and put a batch nr coded with caliber. For example 308W_R15_175TMK_16_09A (easy to guess).
This goes into my log book and then referenced into my shooting log for whatever purposes.
1/2 work is in washing and prepping the brass that is key for accuracy.
you can avoid certain things like for pistol you don't trim. Or don't be too anal to segregate and prep brass if it is for
plinking or regular practice but do not miss any of the esential safety steps.
If top speed is one's goal then they should probably avoid reloading. For reloading safety is more important than speed
and while can produce good amounts of ammo with good preparation and quality equipment it requires patience.
Slow downs and stoppages will happen and one has to deal with them so there is no shortcuts here.
However, Patience rewards those who make use of it.
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