As many of you probably know shotgun slugs are becoming so expensive and whether is loaded shells for practice or just the slugs to reload.
Also one can cast them but there is some serious investments and melting lead is not an option inside the house at least for many and it is also a hardarous thing so many do not want to do it.
So I have been thinking for a long time about a solution and came up with this idea and process that works really well.
I just want to open the thread in case someone is interested but the goal is to make the slugs good enough for practice and for 10-15 cents already reloaded vs. the crazy prices we are paying
today. It doesn't have to be lethal, it doesn't have to be the most accurate, it just hast to be easy, affordable and yes work with a reasonable degree of accuracy and reliability.
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/bp...out/slugs1.htm

So what I did was start collecting 20 gauge hulls aside from the 12ga. hulls that I already have and use for reloading regular bird and clay target loads.
One of the first things I wanted was to be able to use the same powder, wads adn everything I use for bird shells making everything compatible and thefore easier and cost effective.
I realized that the diameter of the 20ga shell would be perfect to form a projectile for the 12ga.
BORE DIAMETERS
Bore / mm / inches
So a 12 ga slug made from a mold would have a .681" diameter (more or less) that along with the wad will allow to fit perfectly inside the shell.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/778...eter-525-grain
So when using a 20 ga shell that is originally design to work on a .615 bore but it is actually larger on the chamber we will have to do two things
when forming that shell into a cup. One will have to remove the rim that is larger and 2nd we will have to size it to the desired size.
For this I made a couple of simple dies that all they do is to form a cup with the 20ga shells. That is how the process is started.
so these are the steps I follow...
A) I cut the 20ga shell to the size cup I want and to be formed.
B) I put the 20ga shell on a punching die that has a lip for the rim and when I push in the reloading press this swags the shell down
and both removes the rim but also gives me a cup with the actual brass/metal part and a bit of the plastic accordign to the cut length.
C) The cup is pointed a little and I put the cup on a wood tray I made with a 3/4 drill for 50 cups and or shells.
D) Then it comes the filling process. Here you have several options all good options and cost effective and with different densities and weights.
- Fill the cup with shot shell. One should leave a bit of space to seal the cup with either wax or hot glue.
- Fill the cup with nylon, silicone, windown glacing and any other mixture you can find. Bulk liquid glue is also inexpensive and easy.
- Clay or even sand will provide a good media to add weight to the slug. Liquid glue or paint mixed can be pored on top to seal the media you use
so it will not come apart when firing.
E) The end part of the slug could be finished with something of less density that will provide support to the mass inside so the slug will
not desintegrate. Like a cheap woold dowel cut in little cylinders, or even foam or some plastic scrap. I found that even 410 shell heads
make a perfect cup to end the cup formed from the 20ga so it all comes out as a one sealed unit and if one uses liquid glue or hot glue like
other materials this will be sealed and very strong.
F) Once these are cooled and dried / glued next day you load them as regular inexpensive slugs usign the regular shot wad as the based
for them.
If one is using a scale for filling whatever media inside the cups one can get pretty consistent through the entire process. In reality is not
very different from reloading shells with powder. One could use a dipper depending on media. Then it is a matter or having a tray with a good
batch and finishing the sealing in a consistent efficient way.
I have tested a few variations and they are working great. I am testing more with some other media and I am liking the results and even
the accuracy.
I promise pictures.
Also one can cast them but there is some serious investments and melting lead is not an option inside the house at least for many and it is also a hardarous thing so many do not want to do it.
So I have been thinking for a long time about a solution and came up with this idea and process that works really well.
I just want to open the thread in case someone is interested but the goal is to make the slugs good enough for practice and for 10-15 cents already reloaded vs. the crazy prices we are paying
today. It doesn't have to be lethal, it doesn't have to be the most accurate, it just hast to be easy, affordable and yes work with a reasonable degree of accuracy and reliability.
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/bp...out/slugs1.htm

So what I did was start collecting 20 gauge hulls aside from the 12ga. hulls that I already have and use for reloading regular bird and clay target loads.
One of the first things I wanted was to be able to use the same powder, wads adn everything I use for bird shells making everything compatible and thefore easier and cost effective.
I realized that the diameter of the 20ga shell would be perfect to form a projectile for the 12ga.
BORE DIAMETERS
Bore / mm / inches
12 | 18.53 | .729 |
20 | 15.63 | .615 |
410 | 10.41 | .410 |
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/778...eter-525-grain
So when using a 20 ga shell that is originally design to work on a .615 bore but it is actually larger on the chamber we will have to do two things
when forming that shell into a cup. One will have to remove the rim that is larger and 2nd we will have to size it to the desired size.
For this I made a couple of simple dies that all they do is to form a cup with the 20ga shells. That is how the process is started.
so these are the steps I follow...
A) I cut the 20ga shell to the size cup I want and to be formed.
B) I put the 20ga shell on a punching die that has a lip for the rim and when I push in the reloading press this swags the shell down
and both removes the rim but also gives me a cup with the actual brass/metal part and a bit of the plastic accordign to the cut length.
C) The cup is pointed a little and I put the cup on a wood tray I made with a 3/4 drill for 50 cups and or shells.
D) Then it comes the filling process. Here you have several options all good options and cost effective and with different densities and weights.
- Fill the cup with shot shell. One should leave a bit of space to seal the cup with either wax or hot glue.
- Fill the cup with nylon, silicone, windown glacing and any other mixture you can find. Bulk liquid glue is also inexpensive and easy.
- Clay or even sand will provide a good media to add weight to the slug. Liquid glue or paint mixed can be pored on top to seal the media you use
so it will not come apart when firing.
E) The end part of the slug could be finished with something of less density that will provide support to the mass inside so the slug will
not desintegrate. Like a cheap woold dowel cut in little cylinders, or even foam or some plastic scrap. I found that even 410 shell heads
make a perfect cup to end the cup formed from the 20ga so it all comes out as a one sealed unit and if one uses liquid glue or hot glue like
other materials this will be sealed and very strong.
F) Once these are cooled and dried / glued next day you load them as regular inexpensive slugs usign the regular shot wad as the based
for them.
If one is using a scale for filling whatever media inside the cups one can get pretty consistent through the entire process. In reality is not
very different from reloading shells with powder. One could use a dipper depending on media. Then it is a matter or having a tray with a good
batch and finishing the sealing in a consistent efficient way.
I have tested a few variations and they are working great. I am testing more with some other media and I am liking the results and even
the accuracy.
I promise pictures.
Comment