AR Lowers ?

[DarthVader]

Ok I am officially going to buying 1 S&W M&P AR-15 and a 1 S&W M&P 15-22 for full builds in about 10 days, but I am also going to be looking at building my 1st AR-15 and a AR-10 which will take me a year to build but I am going to be looking at getting started with buying the lowers first as there the main parts that needs to go through a FFL,the rest of the parts I be able to mail order..

So I not sure how many of you here are still building or have built a AR-15 or AR-10 in the past. So what I would like to know is what lowers should I be looking at trying to get?

I have one lower that I have been looking at getting for the AR-15 build and that is a Spikes Tactical Spider would you all say this is a good lower?.. I am just not sure what lower to use to build a AR-10 build, so I would like to know what would you choose if you where building a AR-10?

Here is a picture of the Spikes Tactical lower I really like..

https://www.spikestactical.com/colle...nt=32734020108

[thughes]

I guess it depends on your preference for quality. If you're just building a shooter, not a high end competition gun, a lower like this should be fine: https://www.classicfirearms.com/anderson-ar-lower

I'm not a fan of AR's so I really don't understand what you gain from using a $200 lower vs a $35 lower if you're just building something to bang around with. YMMV.

[WARFAB]

There are two major styles of AR-10, and I believe you have to make sure your upper and lower are the same style. AR15s are easier because MilSpec is MilSpec. No major variations aside from the different buffer and gas lengths. I'm with Thug in that I don't see the reason to spend more money on a fancy name lower.

[Calculon]

I bought several Spikes lowers years ago when they were much cheaper. Don’t see the difference between them and the Anderson lowers you can get for a lot less. As WARFAB said milspec is milspec. Invest your money in 3 primary areas - barrel, scope and then trigger. You can get a good drop in trigger for around $100. Just don’t expect to save money on a home build.

[DarthVader]

Thanks everyone I will go with a Anderson lower.I know it be a little more money building but I really would like to build my own vs buying one that is already built,plus it would give me the satisfaction that I was able to do this. As far as a AR-10 goes I am pretty sure to build one I should try and stay with all the same specs such as lower and upper should be made by the same company.This is something I will have to think on but for now I stay with building the AR-15..

[camper4lyfe]

I haven’t paid much attention to AR parts since I finished mine, but at one point, there was only like 2 or 3 main companies making the upper and lower receivers. The only main difference between them was the name/picture on them (not including the billet vs forged comparison).

I believe LAR is one of those manufacturers. Buying one of their receivers is basically like buying factory direct.

As mentuoned, milspec is milspec. You might occasionally run into a tight fit due to tolerances, but they’ll all work.

[dwa12479]

Just don't get a polymer AR15 lower, stick to forged aluminum and you'll be fine. As said above, Milspec is Milspec. I have more than one Anderson and have no complaints.

The AR10 has 2 patterns, Armalite and DPMS. They're not interchangeable, so whichever you choose, you must stick to that pattern the whole build.

[WARFAB]

You can get a good drop in trigger for around $100.

Geissele was selling their version of a "stock" AR trigger for about $60, but I can't remember what they were calling it and I'm not seeing it on their website now. They had a sample set up for people to try at Camp Perry and it seemed really nice. No bells and whistles, but a huge improvement over MilSpec.

[DarthVader]

Hello everyone, does anyone know what is the sizes of all the roll pins that are on a AR-15 or are they all different? I been looking for the right size roll pin punch or roll pin holder for the roll pins..I really like to get a set of the roll pin holders as it be nice to have something that would make it easier to hold the roll pin in place vs trying to hold it by hand or with a pair needle nose pliers..

[camper4lyfe]

Bolt Catch Retaining Roll Pin: 3/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Trigger Guard Retaining Roll Pin: 1/8" Diameter x 5/8" Length
Forward Assist Retaining Roll Pin: 3/32" Diameter x 5/8" Length
Ejector Retaining Roll Pin: 1/16" Diameter x 7/16" Length
Gas Tube Retaining Roll Pin: 5/64" Diameter x 5/16" Length

[DarthVader]

Bolt Catch Retaining Roll Pin: 3/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length
Trigger Guard Retaining Roll Pin: 1/8" Diameter x 5/8" Length
Forward Assist Retaining Roll Pin: 3/32" Diameter x 5/8" Length
Ejector Retaining Roll Pin: 1/16" Diameter x 7/16" Length
Gas Tube Retaining Roll Pin: 5/64" Diameter x 5/16" Length

Thank You from what I can tell it looks like I would need 5 different size roll pin punches or 5 pin roll punch holders.I have to see if there is a kit out there that has all 5 sizes..

[camper4lyfe]

Thank You from what I can tell it looks like I would need 5 different size roll pin punches or 5 pin roll punch holders.I have to see if there is a kit out there that has all 5 sizes..

4 different sizes; 3/32, 1/8, 1/16, and 5/64.

[DarthVader]

4 different sizes; 3/32, 1/8, 1/16, and 5/64.

Ok lets look around and see if I can find all 4 in a kit,Also would say that the roll pin punch holders ones would be a better option vs just a roll pin punch with out the roll pin holder?

[camper4lyfe]

The only pin I used a holder/punch for was the bolt release. I actually made that one (plus side to having access to a machine shop) just so I didn't scratch the receiver with anything.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/66...unch-set-steel

[DarthVader]

The only pin I used a holder/punch for was the bolt release. I actually made that one (plus side to having access to a machine shop) just so I didn't scratch the receiver with anything.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/66...unch-set-steel

Thanks for the link will check it out..