Head space

[Meketrefe]

What I've read is that you need to resize the cases for semi autos. You don't need to with bolts, though.

That is what some folks say but not always needed. I think for a general purpose from many guns it might make sense but because warfab is shooting for extreme accuracy what he
needs to do is to try going from less to more. Buf if one's autoloader chambers fine after neck sizing only there is no need to rework the brass and if one is only going to use it in that
one or any other where the necked sized only chambers fine. So the best way to make sure is to test with a dummy round identical to the one being loaded but w.o powder if one cannot
remove the firing pin for testing.

And if one is going on a big hunt one should always try mission critical rounds before going out, fully resized or not. remove the firing pin and test those to make sure they chamber
before one is in front of the trophy of his life and going 'schit' this doesn't chamber!!! Or even worse, in front of charging cape buffalo or a grizzly bear!!! AHH!. LOL. A faulty chamber at the range means nothing but there in Alaska or Africa it might be a different deal.
One can screw up too with putting the wrong bullets seating too far out, etc... ...murphy's law... you know.

For long term storage and shtf I would fully resize all the rounds. I would also waterproof the rounds and package them in waterproof dry packaging with detail information about the load. I would also do it from super clear brass in and out, including primers so this means two cycles in the progressive.

[WARFAB]

Who chambered your rifle and that type of 223 chamber do you have? if you know the reamer
it was cut with that would be awesome.

I bought the rifle used off gunbroker. As far as I know the barrel is a stock RRA with a Wylde chamber. I believe RRA uses Wilson barrels, but I haven't been able to check my barrel for markings because I don't want to take off the free float tube. The rifle has been shooting pretty well for me and I don't want to mess with anything that could change my zeroes.

[Meketrefe]

I bought the rifle used off gunbroker. As far as I know the barrel is a stock RRA with a Wylde chamber. I believe RRA uses Wilson barrels, but I haven't been able to check my barrel for markings because I don't want to take off the free float tube. The rifle has been shooting pretty well for me and I don't want to mess with anything that could change my zeroes.

Lots of RRA sold in Gunbroker specially from a gun shop in TX. The guy sells them like peanuts. I got a couple of those at the time too. LOL ...yes I think they are wilson and they are well
chambered with wylde PTG reamers I think. Try chambering a dummy/inert round by hand w/o the carrier and w/o the ejector and see how it feels to the hand/touch as it rotates into battery. This is to discard any issues with the cam cut or the cam pin. Debugging is best to start from the begining and remove any other variables. Sort of peeling the onion slowly layer by layer, starting from the outside. LOL

[Newfie]

Boring the chamber misaligned with the bore of the barrel?
Even a very small fraction of a degree would place a cant to it.

[Meketrefe]

OK. ...another critical dimension is the distance from the end of the tenon to the bolt face. normally this is between .125 to .135 +/- clearance. If someone screws up and short chambers too much and gives the difference to that distance to the tenon then the base of the case is exposed w/o support and it might blow up. This will pass the headspace check and one might not notice if the difference is not something too obvious to the naked eye.
I have also seen this in AR barrels and other guns, specially 'el cheapo' parts kits like those sold by SSA, model1,etc..

[Newfie]

OK Meketrefe,
Reward me for attending class.
For a SKS with an unmarked bolt that chambers a round without incident, How many pieces of the frosty scotch tape on an unfired cartridge would indicate excessive head space. This would be with FP and extractor removed and bolt will not go onto battery with lite finger pressure on the bolt.
Edit: For example. 1 piece of tape and bolt still goes into battery. 2 pieces and it still goes into battery. Etc,etc. At what point is too many pieces of tape? I have not done this as of yet but think I might give it a try.

[Meketrefe]

OK Meketrefe,
Reward me for attending class.
For a SKS with an unmarked bolt that chambers a round without incident, How many pieces of the frosty scotch tape on an unfired cartridge would indicate excessive head space. This would be with FP and extractor removed and bolt will not go onto battery with lite finger pressure on the bolt.

There is no class here, just activating the little gray cells. I am learning too.

Military chambers are all over the place. But I know many times the russian rounds are much shorter than the go gauge. So it might take 4 or 5 leyers. pehaps 6 to 9 thousand??? that is on the bad side already. That would mean the brass is ruined and accuracy probably sucks but then most folks do not care about accuracy and do not reload anyway, they just like to shoot cheap ammo.

I need more details. How thick is your tape? How many layers is taking? Are you chambering or is already chambered?

[Meketrefe]

This is from barrels that passed headspace....

This one from a local friend who got the barrel from one of those cheapo kits from Model1 or SSA or something like that, I forgot...






This is another chamber fiasco...

[Newfie]

Looks like my earlier belief that the difference in clearance between Go and No Go being .004 thousands was close.
I have two SKS's . The one I am tinkering with was purchased for just that purpose. Tinkering. It was already cut to Paratrooper length so it fit my needs. It's a nice functioning rifle but would have no collecting value to those who collect them. I am getting way too much money into it but it is fun and a nice learning experience.
I also own a late production Tula letter K rifle that was re arsenaled. All matching numbers. Though the SKS is not known to be an real accurate rifle the Russian Tula turned out to be exceptionally accurate. Scary accurate in fact for what it is.
I will not have access to the rifles until April. When I can I think I will do a little experiment.
I will do the tape test on the Russian. Then I will do the tape test on the /26\ Chinese that is my tinker rifle and see how they compare.
I also need to find a decent caliper. Something better than a Harbor Freight but not looking to break the bank.
Side story is I have some tools and instruments that belonged to a brother who was killed in world War Two. Prior to entering service he worked for Starrett in MA.
Somehow a Starrett micrometer of his has come up missing. Probably could have used it.
Anyway, that's the plan for now.
Always enjoy reading your posts Meketrefe, even when they are not about something I am personally involved in.